Tips for free motion quilting
1. Practice first. Start with a small 'quilt sandwich' (2 pieces of fabric with batting in the middle) of approximately 12" square and get used to moving it back and forth under the needle. Invest in basting pins which come in two sizes and are slightly curved. Pin your quilt or practice sandwich up every few inches and take out the pins as you go. Don't pull, tug, or push your quilt. Just try to move it smoothly and keep the needle straight up and down. My machine has a special needle plate with a small needle hole which I use when free motion quilting. I also use a combination of quilting gloves (with sticky fingers) or finger cots that give me a little grip on the quilt.
2. Relax. It takes time to learn to FMQ. Sing a song or hum a nursery rhyme. The latter always works for me and I use it still when I find myself getting tense. Row, row, row your boat was always my fave although I hummed 'sew, sew, sew your quilt' instead
3. Use good quality threads like King Tut, Aurafil or Mettler. They come in fabulous colors and you can use them in the spool and bobbin.
Most new machines have automatic feed dog control. You need to drop them (or cover if it's an older machine) and set your stitch length to zero or engage your FMQ function. Use a proper quilting foot. Just check with your dealer for the right one. I prefer a foot with an open half moon shape but there are many options. Use nice quality quilting needles. Generally a 90/14 is the best size with the cotton threads.
If your thread is breaking try a new needle. Or adjust your machine tension. Or take a little break and adjust your own tension and come back and try again. Some spools prefer to stand up instead of lying horizontally and your dealer can advise on that. Loose threads on the underside of your work means the tension of the spool is incorrect. Rethreading often fixes the problem. Don't overfill your bobbins, I usually fill mine 3/4 and just pre-load a few depending on the size of the quilt.
I use stencils and a 'pounce pad' filled with chalk to transfer my design to the quilt. You will find many online at www.fulllinestencil.com
I also use plastic stencils available at my local quilt stores and online at places like www.quiltingcreations.com. Many online companies will make their designs in different sizes if you inquire. Start with something simple - loops or repeating spirals. Another option is to draw your own design onto the quilt (before you pin baste) and there are numerous water soluble pencils for that function.
Prep your quilt - iron the top and back. Unfold your batting and flatten out the creases or put it in the dryer for a few minutes on a fluff setting. I tape the backing to the floor using masking or painters tape, stretching slightly. Then I layer the batting and smooth it out and lastly the quilt top. I pin baste strategically so the quilt layers are stable but not too heavy. Then I'm ready to hit the machine.
There is nothing quite as pleasing as finishing a quilt top and then augmenting your work with a beautiful quilting design. There are many professional quilters including myself who can finish your work for you, but it's really rewarding to do your own quilting so give it a go. Mostly, don't give up!! I've been FMQing for years and I still have days where nothing is working right. I take a break, a deep breath, and go again. Sew, sew, sew my quilt...
Below is an example of 'stipple' or 'meander' and is a basic pattern that can be simple and effective and one of the best to use when learning to free motion quilt.
The second picture is a looping heart block design that's a little more complex but you'll get there
